One thing I've learned in over 25 years covering Manchester's food and drink scene is never to try and second guess those mysterious Michelin Guide inspectors.

They secretly gather to scrutinise the best of the best in the culinary world and then once a year, out pops the verdict of who is worthy of the most coveted of all foodie awards - the Michelin Star.

It might be hard to recall now given the Manc Michelin resurgence of recent years (the city centre now boasting two Michelin Star restaurants with Mana in Ancoats and the newest encumbent, Skof on Federation Street) but for 40 years of hurt Manchester was a Michelin Star desert.

Back in 2014, two different Michelin-adorned chefs both revealed their plans to open fine dining spots in the city, with speculation that one - or both- could finally bag a Star for Manchester city centre.

Problem was, the BBC also cottoned on to the deliciousness of this idea, and decided to film both chefs and their teams for what became perhaps a rather overcooked series about it all.

The ensuing documentary, "Restaurant Wars: The Battle for Manchester" followed Simon Rogan as he opened his own restaurant at The French at the Midland while Aiden Byrne, famous as the youngest ever recipient of a Michelin Star, was busy opening Manchester House with the late, great Tim Bacon on Spinningfields.

The documakers asserted that both were in some kind of race to be first to claim that Michelin Star, as if it was inevitable that one would.

It seems Michelin didn't get the memo. Because despite both chefs creating some seriously spectacular food at both of their establishments (I was lucky enough to dine at both), neither would go on to win a Michelin Star - either that year or any subsequent year at those locations.

Anyway, I bring this all up again now, because Aiden, one of the UK's finest chefs, is back on top form after opening his own restaurant, on his own terms, not all that far from Manchester.

And he's cooking like a man who really couldn't care less if Michelin approve of him or not because he knows, and anyone who dines there knows, this is really something special.

Aiden Byrne has opened his own restaurant in Knutsford, Restaurant Li-Ly

He's also found himself in a location that's well and truly in the spotlight right now, in the historic market town of Knutsford - just named one of the Best Places to Live in the UK by The Sunday Times. It all feels like right place, right time and all that.

Although to be honest, walking along the rather gorgeous period cottage-clad King Street in Knutsford to get to Aiden's Restaurant Li-Ly, feels a bit like stepping back in time. And arriving at our destination for dinner takes us even further back in the history books.

Aiden and wife Sarah took on the Grade II listed, timber clad 48 King Street last year, and set about transforming this 400-year-old building (with the help of a well-backed Crowdfunder) to become a quirky white-washed multi-levelled restaurant space that feels modern and mysteriously ancient all at the same time.

Insdie Restaurant Li-Ly

I also rather like that the title of the restaurant pays tribute to Knutsford's River Lily, a real oddity of this town. A river so amusingly small you might happily walk over it and think it's a burst water main.

Arriving on a Saturday night, we are seated by the window which is an excellent spot for spying on the activity outside on the busy street while also keeping an eye on the mouthwatering dishes being sent out from the kitchen, which has been nestled in the centre of this higgledy-piggledy building.

The seasonal menus are unashamedly fine dining, and in the evening taster menus are priced at £90. They're set menus, but there's a good range of options for those with food allergies and intolerances as you can have shellfish-free, gluten-free or a vegetarian menu. The tasting menu at lunchtimes is a reduced selection for £60. Yes, I know it's expensive, but as we were to discover worth every penny of that.

Things get off to a flying start with our meal, with the arrival of sweetcorn macaroons. Sounds grim doesn't it, but my goodness the hit of savoury with sweet - a slice of cured scallop next to white chocolate and bergamot ganache was genius.

Sweetcorn macaroon

Just as our plates were being cleared we realised there was an extra treat inside the conical dish - a load of crunchy corn hidden beneath that were so good we asked if we could just keep the plates a while longer.

Then it was on to a dish of Field 28 New Season Carrots - grown just down the road in Warrington. The sign of a great chef to me is one who can turn vegetables into a delicacy - and here they're like shards of crystal joy.

Another thing the mysterious Michelin lot want to find in a Star-worthy restaurant (so I'm told) is the finest fresh baked bread. And you've most definitely got it here - one of the standout courses of the meal Aiden delivers himself to each table is a giant, shiny brown orb of buttermilk carb delight, topped with hefty shavings of Yorkshire pecorino cheese.

The dreamy bread is brought alongside the most beautiful plate of St Helena cheese mousse with creamed morel mushrooms and a delicately weaved wafer. It's just one joyful dish of food after the other, with every mouth an education of flavours.

The impressive bread and cheese mousse course at Restaurant Li-Ly

There's an excellent butter poached cod followed by a substantial herb fed chicken dish that really shows this is far from a teeny-tiny type of taster menu.

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Dessert continues to offer up some revelations - with a bowl of what is described as coffee, mushroom and yukon gold being unlike any sweet I've eaten before, but most definitely want to try again. It's without doubt one of the best meals I've eaten in the past year.

Service throughout has been super friendly, with the waiting staff dressed in casual aprons and t-shirts to signal that this is not a place that wants to feel stuffy or old-fashioned.

At the end of the meal I have a quick chat to thank chef for the exceptional food we've enjoyed.

Aiden and Sarah Byrne are behind Restaurant Li-Ly in Knutsford

He says: "I've always served food that other people want me to do to some extent, but now I'm cooking what I want to cook." That must be an incredibly liberating feeling for Aiden.

And it has unleashed some of the best food he's ever cooked - certainly in my experience of his ventures over the past 15 years for sure. Restaurant Li-Ly is standout - and having dined at both of Manchester's Michelin Star venues Mana and Skof in recent times I can state my belief that this place stands at their level.

And if the mysterious Michelin men and women fail to see it? Then they're the ones missing out.

Restaurant Li-ly by Aiden Byrne, 48 King Street, Knutsford, WA16 6DT